Chemical Peels and Frost: Where is the Line Between Beauty and Risk?

The winter season raises the question for cosmetologists: can peels be performed in low-temperature conditions?

Most patients associate the winter period with a safe time for exfoliation, as the level of ultraviolet radiation is lower, and therefore, the risk of hyperpigmentation is reduced. However, low temperatures, wind, dry indoor air, and disruptions to the hydrolipidic barrier can make the skin recovery process much more complicated.

In this article, we will explore the physiology of the skin in winter, the potential risks of performing peels during the cold season, and the optimal techniques that can be safely used in low temperatures.

Choosing a Peel Depending on the Air Temperature

When planning chemical peels during the winter period, it is important to consider the ambient temperature and choose the appropriate procedures:

• Temperature up to -5°C. Soft peels such as enzyme and lactic acid peels are allowed. They provide gentle exfoliation without significantly disrupting the skin’s barrier function.
• Temperature from -5°C to -10°C. It is recommended to limit the use of peels with low concentrations of glycolic acid (5-10%) and mandelic acid. Additional protection and hydration of the skin after the procedure are necessary.
• Temperature below -10°C. Chemical peels are not recommended due to the high risk of skin damage and slowing of the skin’s recovery processes.

Which Peels are Safe in the Cold Season?

To minimize risks, cosmetologists should choose gentle peels that do not disrupt the skin’s natural barrier.

Enzyme Peels

Enzyme peels contain enzymes (papain, bromelain) that gently break the bonds between keratinized cells without causing deep skin damage. They do not provoke irritation and also help retain moisture.

• They are suitable for sensitive skin and can be used at temperatures up to -5°C.

Lactic Acid Peels

Lactic acid is one of the safest AHA acids for the winter period. It exfoliates the stratum corneum and simultaneously moisturizes the skin as it stimulates the production of ceramides necessary for moisture retention.

According to the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, lactic acid reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and helps maintain skin hydration.

• Recommended for dry and sensitive skin, especially at temperatures up to -5°C.

Mandelic Acid Peels

Mandelic acid has a high molecular weight, which allows it to act superficially without deep penetration. This makes it ideal for sensitive skin prone to irritation. In addition to exfoliation, it has antibacterial properties, which is beneficial for oily or problematic skin.

• It can be used at temperatures from -5°C to -10°C with proper post-care.

Which Peels Should Be Avoided in Winter?

Some types of peels can do more harm than good to the skin, especially in low temperatures.

Glycolic Acid Peels (High Concentrations)

Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule among AHA acids, so it penetrates deeply into the skin. During the winter period, this can lead to excessive moisture loss, irritation, and redness.

• Low concentrations (5-10%) can be used at temperatures from -5°C to -10°C with mandatory subsequent hydration and protection.

Retinoic Acid Peels

Retinoic acid actively stimulates cell renewal, making the skin very sensitive. In cold conditions, this can cause severe irritation, peeling, and even exacerbate rosacea.

• Due to the increased skin sensitivity after the procedure, it is not recommended during the winter period, especially at temperatures below -5°C.

TCA Peel (Trichloroacetic Acid)

Medium peels, such as TCA, break down a significant portion of the epidermis, leaving the skin completely unprotected. In the cold, this can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and prolonged recovery.

• Not recommended at temperatures below -5°C due to the long recovery period and increased risk of complications.

Post-Peel Skin Care in Winter

To minimize the negative effects of peels during the cold season, several key care principles should be followed.

• Hydration. After a peel, it is important to restore the water balance. For this, creams with hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramides, and fatty acids should be used.
• Protection from Cold. Apply protective creams before going outside, preferably 30 minutes before exposure.
• Sun Protection. Despite the winter season, use creams with SPF 30 or higher to protect from ultraviolet radiation.
• Limit Exposure to the Cold. Avoid prolonged exposure to cold during the first 48 hours after the procedure.

Following these recommendations will help ensure safe and effective chemical peels during the winter period, minimizing risks and improving procedure results.

Conclusion

The winter period is not a contraindication for performing peels but requires careful selection of the technique.

• Enzyme, lactic, and mandelic acid peels are safe even in low temperatures.
• Glycolic, retinoic, and TCA peels can cause complications and slow skin recovery.

The main principle of winter procedures is gentle skin care and the correct choice of active ingredients.

Sources

1. K.A. Engebretsen, J.D. Johansen, S. Kezic, A. Linneberg, J.P. Thyssen. The effect of environmental humidity and temperature on skin barrier function and dermatitis. European Academy of Dermatology. 2016 Feb;30(2):223-49.
2. M. Fartasch, J. Teal, G.K. Menon. Mode of action of glycolic acid on human stratum corneum: ultrastructural and functional evaluation of the epidermal barrier. 1997 Jun;289(7):404-9.
3. Tanja Fischer. Chemical peels in aesthetic dermatology. March 2010. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology 24(3):281 – 292.

Nataliya CHAYKA – Editor of ESTportal, Aesthetic Doctor